Win a Copy of Everest Courtesy of The Adventure Blog and Universal Home Entertainment

Next Tuesday, January 19, the Hollywood blockbuster Everest will release on DVD, and to celebrate The Adventure Blog is teaming up with Universal Home Entertainment to give away a DVD/Blu-Ray combo pack, as well as a limited edition Everest carabiner.

As you may recall, the film recounts the tragic events of the famous 1996 season, during which eight people died on the mountain. In the movie, some of the principal characters are played by famous actors, including Josh Brolin, Jason Clarke, and Jake Gyllenhaal. You can read my full review of the film here, which I lauded for being accurate in its depiction of the climb, and having great cinematography that highlight the scenery from the Himalaya incredibly well.

Everest is already available on digital streaming platforms such as iTunes and the Google Play Store, but next week it will ship on physical media to traditional outlets as well. The combo pack that I'm giving away includes the full film on DVD and Blu-Ray, as well a redemption code for a digital version as well. It also includes bonus footage on the making of the film, the training that the actors went through to prepare for their roles, and more.

If you'd like to win this copy of the film, you can enter the contest for the giveaway simply by sending an email with subject line of "Everest" to kungfujedi@gmail.com. The contest is open to U.S. residents only, and will run through Monday, January 19. At which time, I will randomly draw a winner, and contact them for a shipping address to send the prize to. One entry per person please.

Good luck!

Winter Climbs 2016: Two Teams Join Forces on Nanga Parbat

The teams climbing on Nanga Parbat have made solid progress since we last checked in. They've all had opportunities to work their respective routes, and everyone is acclimatizing as expected. There is still a long way to go before they launch any perspective summit bids, but with a period of good weather on the mountain, things are progressing about as well as can be expected at this point of the season.

The Polish Justice for All team is working the Rupal route. They're currently above 6200 meters (20,341 ft) and are fixing ropes towards Camp 3. So far, they've been making steady progress, although it hasn't been as fast as they'd like. Still, the team is slowly, and methodically, working its way up the mountain, acclimatizing as they go, and installing camps where they'll need them for any potential summit pushes down the line.

One interesting note however is that this squad originally had several Pakistani members as well, but according to ExWeb, they left the team a few weeks back. It is unclear why the local climbers decided to depart, but there seems to have been some dispute over the best way to climb the moutanin together.


Elsewhere, two of the teams on the Kinshofer Route have decided to join forces. One squad was originally made up of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, and Ali Sadpara, while the other included the duo of Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech. Each of these climbers is extremely strong and experienced, but it was in their best interest to work together to try to make the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in the winter. They have managed to fix rope to 5700 meters (18,700 ft), with another 3000 meters of rope shuttled to various points on the mountain. That should be more than enough to get them to the top, although there is lots of hard work to be done getting all of it into position.

With these two squads now working together, the rope fixing should go more quickly and efficiently. And since there are so many strong climbers on the team, the chances of success for all of them has increased all around.

ExWeb is reporting that Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have now reached Camp 3 at approximately 6600 meters (21,653 ft), and were expecting to go above 7000 meters (22,956 ft) later today. That will put them in good position for a potential summit push, although they'll likely retreat to BC to rest up before that will ever happen. The two climbers were reportedly sharing camps with Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger as well, although the Italian climbers have not posted an update on their progress since last week.

All in all, it has been a good start to the winter climbing season on Nanga. It is still too early to know if anyone will be successful in their attempt o climb the mountain however, as the winter weather conditions can shift quickly, with heavy snows, high winds, and extreme temperatures gripping the region for days. Still, the teams remain optimistic that they can finally climb this beast during the harshest season of the year. We'll just have to wait to see if they get the chance.

Winter Climbs 2016: Teams Go To Work on Nanga Parbat

It has been a couple of weeks since we posted any updates from Pakistan, where at least five teams are now preparing to attempt the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in winter. As I'm sure most of you know, Nanga is one of just two 8000-meter peaks that have yet to be climbed during the very difficult winter season. The other major peak that holds that distinction is K2, which will have no visitors this winter at all. But over the past few years, there has been progress made on Nanga Parbat, and this year just might be the one that sees a successful summit at long last.

The first team on the mountain this year was the Polish Justice For All squad. They actually arrived in the region as far back as the middle of November, and have been busy acclimatizing ahead of the start of the winter season. Once the first day of winter in the Northern Hemisphere passed on December 21, they immediately went to work and have been busy fixing ropes and establishing camps ever since. They have now reached an altitude of about 5500 meters (18,044 ft) and have been shuttling gear up to their intermediate camps before heading higher on the Schell Route.

Elsewhere, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have arrived in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat after spending several weeks acclimatizing in the Andes in South America. Adam says that the snow is already quite heavy on the mountain, but the pair have managed to establish Camp 1 at 4900 meters (16,076 ft). They have since returned to Base Camp where they are catching their breath, warming up, and planning the next move.


The international team led by Alex Txikon, and consisting of Daniele Nardi and Ali Sadpara arrived on the mountain a few days back and have already gone to work too. They've already taken 70 kilograms (154 lbs) up to C1, which is located at 4850 meters (15,912 ft) using snowshoes and sleds to aid in the process. So far, the team reports that the weather has been good, but that is expected to change in the next few days, when heavy snow is in the forecast.

Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger reached Nanga Parbat on December 27, and have joined forces with Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz, who spent a considerable amount of time on the mountain last winter. They have been acclimatizing over the past few days, and most likely have established their first camp as well. As part of the process, the group has now gone as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) and spent a couple of nights above 5500 meters (18,044 ft) as well. They're now back in BC resting, and sorting through some logistical issues, including the fact that the porters are now requesting 5 times the price that they agreed upon to shuttle gear up to BC. Such are the challenges of an expedition to Pakistan.

For the most part, the winter climbing season is only now just getting underway. Some of these teams are prepared to stay on Nanga Parbat throughout the entire winter if necessary, although weather conditions will dictate any chances they have of actually reaching the top. For now, they are all being patient, taking their time, and watching the forecasts closely. We'll be watching their progress just as closely in the days to come. This could be the winter season in which history is made.

Antarctica 2015: Worsley at the Pole!

While the rest of us have been enjoying the holidays over the past few weeks, the Antarctic explorers have continued to toil away on the frozen continent. There is now roughly three weeks left in the ski season, and it has been a difficult one to say the least. But each day brings them closer to their ultimate destination, which for most is the very bottom of the world.

Yesterday, Henry Worsley became the first skier of the season to reach the South Pole. It is the third time that he has skied across Antarctica to stand at 90ºS. It took him 51 days to get there, which means he is about a day behind his intended schedule. The British polar explorer enjoyed a bit of down time at the research station there, but due to his "solo and unassisted" status, he didn't interact with anyone or receive any kind of aid. Today, he is already back on the trail, as he looks to complete a traverse of the continent.

Now that the Pole is behind him, Henry will continue on towards his finish line at the Ross Ice Shelf. From here on out, the skiing should be a bit easier, although he is no doubt exhausted and his muscles are sore. He'll continue to race the clock however, as the last plane off the continent is scheduled for January 28, and he'll need to be on that flight one way or another.

Elsewhere, American solo-skier Doug Tumminello continues to make progress as well, although he still has a long way to go. Yesterday he crossed the 84th degree, leaving him six more to go until the Pole. He's spent a full month on the ice now, and his sled is getting lighter as a result, which typically translates to going faster too. But Dough has struggled with sore feet and blisters since early on in the expedition, and that continues to be a problem now. He's about three or four days from Thiels Corner – an important milestone on the journey – at which point he intends to reevaluate his position and pace. It is possible he could pull the plug altogether and head home, but we'll just have to wait to see.


Scotsman Luke Robertson is making better time on his solo journey. On day 30 he has now passed the 87th degree and is narrowing in on the South Pole. He expect to reach that point in about ten days, and is counting down the miles now.

Carl Alvy and Emma Kelty have not updated their progress since New Year's Eve, but it sounds like they are in good spirits and making headway towards the Pole as well. It has been a difficult journey for Emma in particular, but the duo are picking up the pace as the get closer to 90ºS. Both weather and surface conditions have been better over the past few days, which has improved their spirits too. There is no word yet on when they expect to wrap up their expedition however.

Finally, the team of Devon McDiarmid, Stew Edge, Mostafa Salameh, and Shahrom Abdullah have achieved the 87th degree as well. It took them 25 days to get to that milestone, leaving them just three degrees to cross before the Pole. They'll likely get there sometime in the next ten days as well, as they are moving quickly and efficiently now despite whiteout conditions along their route. They just reached their final resupply point, and should now be set for the push to the finish line. Despite their late start, this group looks like it'll have no problems reaching the South Pole on schedule.

Over on Mt. Vinson, it has been a busy couple of weeks as well. A number of teams summited during the holiday time frame, which is a popular period on the mountain. While not everyone has finished their expeditions to the tallest peak in Antarctica, climbing operations are starting to wind down there for another season.

More to come soon.

Outside's Top 10 Adventures of 2015

Our end of the year review and wrap-up continues today, this time with a list from Outside magazine of the 10 most badass adventures of 2015. As you can tell from the title, the list is made up of some of the most daring and audacious expeditions from the past 12 months, some of which you may have forgotten about, or slipped under your radar altogether.

The first entry should come as no surprise to anyone. It is Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's ascent of the Dawn Wall, which tops my list of the best adventures of 2015 for a number of reasons. First and foremost, it was an incredible climb up one of the hardest routes on the planet, but going beyond that it also managed to captivate an audience that went well beyond the normal climbing crowd. It will be difficult for anyone to match this climb in 2016, or for years to come.

Other expeditions that got the nod from Outside include an attempt at the first ski descent of Makalu, Lonnie Dupre's solo summit of Denali in January, and Will Gadd's climb of the frozen Niagara Falls, which was also a first.

I won't spoil the entire list, as obviously part of the fun is finding out what Outside deemed worthy of sharing, as well as being reminded of the interesting adventures from the year that has passed. But it is safe to say however, that each of the entries in the article are certainly deserving of the "badass" label, and will inspire you to think about some of your own adventures for 2016.

Start the slideshow by clicking here.

Nat Geo Picks the Best Adventure Films of 2015

2015 was a good year for adventure filmmakers. Over the course of the past 12 months we've seen some of the best outdoor and travel focused films ever, and thanks to a proliferation of excellent tools – such as low-cost, high-quality cameras and affordable drones – it looks like this trend of fantastic guerrilla filmmaking won't end anytime soon. With that in mind, National Geographic Adventure took a look back at the very best adventure films from the past year, and revealed their picks for the seven best.

The subjects of these films vary wildly, with some focusing on climbing and mountaineering, while others are all about exploration, skiing, dogsled racing, and even our complex relationships with our canine friends. Some of the short films that earned a spot on Nat Geo's list include A Line Across the Sky, which documented Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold's historic climb of the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia, as well as The Great Alone, which takes us into the Alaskan wilderness with Iditarod champ Lancey Makey, and Unbranded which features an epic journey across the U.S. with wild mustangs.

Of course, one of the most high profile adventure films of the year was Meru. This stunning mountaineering film follows Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk as they climb the Shark's Fin on Mt. Meru in India. This is one of the few movies of this type that actually had a theatrical run, which makes it stand out all the more. Check out the trailer below, and try to catch it on DVD or iTunes if you can.

I'm sure 2016 will bring even more interesting adventure films. I can't wait to see what is in store for us.

Video: The Day Everest Shook

Without a doubt, one of the biggest events of 2015 was the earthquake in Nepal. That seismic event rattled the entire country, and continues to have an impact on that nation months after the tremors have died down. This video is a full-length documentary film that takes us to the Himalaya to show us what happened on the day of the quake, demonstrating the forces at work there. It also contains some sobering footage of the mountains, and the impact of this disaster, which will take years to fully recover from.

Video: Ueli Steck Climbs 82 Peaks in 62 Days

One of the other most impressive accomplishments of 2015 was Ueli Steck's project to climb all 82 peaks in the Alps that are taller than 4000 meters (13,123 feet). The Swiss Machine managed to knock off all of those mountains in a mere 62 days, showing us once again why he is amongst the most talented alpinists of his generation.

In the video below, you'll get a chance to watch Ueli go to work in the Alps, while discussing the project, and what drives him to press forward with his expeditions to the mountains.

What will Ueli have in store for us in 2016? We'll just have to wait to find out. But I'm sure it'll be something unique and impressive.

The Cost of Climbing Everest - 2016 Edition

One of the most common questions that people have in regards to climbing Everest is just how much does it cost? I field those questions from curious people on a semi-regular basis, and I've only been to Base Camp, which is why it shouldn't come as much of a surprise that Alan Arnette gets asked that same question all the time. Fortunately, Alan has once again posted a summary of the costs for the season ahead, where we discover that the options are getting both more, and less, expensive all the time.

Alan's 2016 version of his annual blog post on how much it costs to climb Everest is a comprehensive  look not just at the expenses of such an expedition, but the trends that operators on the mountain are now facing. When researching this topic, Alan reaches out to the guiding companies for insights into not just their pricing, but the factors that impact their costs. In recent years, there has been a few high profile companies pushing the costs upwards, while less expensive operators from Nepal jump into the fray for the first time. As a result, there may now the largest gap ever in terms of low- and high-end options.

Alan's says that a typical Everest climb will range from as low as $30,000 to as high as $85,000 in 2016. The high end of that market is dominated by companies such as Madison Mountaineering, Adventure Consultants, Himex, and Alpenglow. At the other end of the spectrum you'll find Nepali companies that are still looking to earn a name for themselves.

There is also a difference in price based on which side of the mountain you climb on. Nepal's South Side is the more expensive route, with the average cost running about $42,000. While on the North Side in Tibet an expedition is considerably less, averaging closer to $32,000. That's a considerable savings, but there are some bureaucratic obstacles to overcome when you go North, which is why the vast majority of climbers stick to the South, despite the increased costs.

If you've ever wondered where all of that money goes, Alan has a nice breakdown of the expenses too. The short answer is that your cash goes to pay for travel expenses, permits, insurance, guides, and so on, but there is more to it than just that, and Alan offers insights based on his numerous expeditions to the Himalaya.

Personally, I always enjoy reading this post each year. It provides a good sense of how things are developing for the spring climbing season, and what to expect from the companies that will be leading teams up Everest. Hopefully 2016 is a much more productive year on the mountain, with less heartache and tragedy than the past two. We'll find out soon enough.

The Latest Plan to Jumpstart Nepal's Tourism Economy? Slash Insurance Costs For Mountain Expeditions

We all know that Nepal has suffered greatly since the April 25 earthquake that left parts of the country in ruins. It has been a long, difficult struggle to even begin the rebuilding process, with some areas still waiting to see any positive results. And beyond the physical damage that is still being cleaned up, the Nepal's economy has suffered greatly, no small part thanks to the adventure travel market taking a nose dive in the wake of the disaster. But now, the Department of Tourism there has come up with a plan to help revive the economy, and it involves cutting the costs of a trip at the expense of reducing the price of insurance for guides and porters, with premiums dropping accordingly as well.

According to Bahadur Karki, the head of the Nepali Department of Tourism, a proposal has been sent up the ranks in the government that calls for a substantial reduction in the costs of both rescue and health insurance for workers who are taking part in a trekking or mountaineering expedition to any of the 188 peaks that are below 6500 meters (21,325 ft). The DoT has recommended that insurance premiums be reduced to $3000 for guides and porters, and $2000 for Base Camp staff. Furthermore, rescue insurance is being dropped from $10,000 down to $4000 for anyone on those expeditions as well.

In other words, this means that should something happen to the staff on an expedition, the payout that they receive would be cut dramatically. $3000 for guides and porters who could be sidelined by an accident is not much money, and could leave their families scrambling to pay for medical bills and covering their bills while the person recovers. Worse yet, if a helicopter is used to extract that person from the mountain, only $4000 of the bill will actually be paid. Considering how expensive it is to take a helicopter flight, that won't even come close to picking up the tab for such a rescue, which can easily exceed $10,000.


The thought behind these reductions in costs is that the savings can then be passed on to travelers, who will now be able to visit Nepal, and climb or trek in the Himalaya, for less money. The hope is that this will spur a return of visitors in the spring of 2016, when Everest climbers are expected to return in large numbers, and trekkers will be hiking throughout the region too.

As you can imagine, the guides, porters, and staff who take part in expeditions that are seeing a reduction of insurance costs aren't very happy with proposal. Following an avalanche that claimed the lives of 16 people on Everest in 2014, there was a movement to increase insurance benefits for workers. That was further enhanced this year when another 22 people were killed on the mountain following the earthquake. While those working on Everest wouldn't be impacted by these changes to the insurance costs, there are thousands of others who could be. There are a lot of climbs and treks that the place on the smaller mountains, but the dangers they face remain high.

It's obvious that the government of Nepal is desperate to jump start the economy and get visitors flowing back into the country. That will obviously take some time to happen, but they with so much work to be done, and so many people still without homes, officials are looking for solutions now. The problem is, this isn't a good solution. While it may make it cheaper for visitors to travel through the country, it is doing so at the expense of people who have already suffered greatly. If the they truly wanted to reduce the cost of climbing or trekking in Nepal, why not examine the price of permits instead? That would also have an impact on many workers, and on the governments bottom line, but at least it wouldn't be putting the future of many people in jeopardy the way slashing insurance benefits could. But then again, this is the government of Nepal we're talking about here. They're not exactly well known for making wise decisions when it comes to governing the country.

Thanks to Stefan Nestler's Adventure Sports Blog for sharing this story.

Winter Climbs 2016: Work Begins on Nanga Parbat

Winter has now officially arrived here in the northern hemisphere, and that means it is time for the very tough and challenging winter climbing season to begin as well. This year, the focus will be placed squarely on Nanga Parbat, the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) mountain located in Pakistan that is one of just two eight-thousand meter peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter. The other is K2 of course, which won't see any teams on its slopes this year. But as I write this, at least five teams are either on Nanga or will be arriving soon, with the race to be the first to top out starting today.

The first team to arrive was the Polish Justice For All squad. They've been on the mountain for nearly a week already, and have been busy setting up Base Camp, organizing their gear, and acclimatizing on some treks throughout the region. But now that winter is officially here, they'll begin the arduous task of shuttling equipment up the slopes as they start to build the series of camps that could eventually grant them access to the summit.

This team has been on the mountain before, and the Poles have a rich history of winter ascents. As usual, they have come well prepared for the challenges ahead, and have already stated that they are ready to stay in place all season long if it means they can finally climb Nanga Parbat. We'll see if it actually comes to that.

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger should also be on the mountain by now, although it is unclear exactly where they are located at the moment. They've been in Pakistan for several weeks now, and arrived in Skardu on December 9, which should have put them in position to reach Nanga ahead of the start of winter. Simone also has quite a history with winter climbing, although he and Lunger were forced to cancel their expedition last year. They're hoping for more success this time out however, and as a result they have arrived in country a bit earlier. Unlike the Polish squad though, they will be attempting to climb in a lighter fashion, as it is just the two of them working the route.


Meanwhile, Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi have wrapped up their acclimation efforts in the Argentinean Andes, and are now preparing to leave South America for Pakistan. Last week they summited several 6000 meter peaks, including  Incahuasi, a 6638 meter (21,778 ft) mountain that was once scared to the Incas. Those climbs have helped get them ready for Nanga Parbat, although it could be the early days of 2016 before they actually get to their intended target.

Similarly, Adam Bielecki has been acclimatizing in Chile as well before he departs for Pakistan. He summited Ojos del Salado (6893 meters/22,615 ft) on Saturday, and prior to that spent three nights above 6700 meters (21,981 ft) to let his body adapt to the altitude. He has likely descended now and is preparing to leave South America as well.

With the winter climbing season now underway, we'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings on Nanga Parbat. The various teams that are already on the mountain will launch their efforts to climb the peak over the next day or two, while the others will focus on getting to Base Camp. It should be an interesting year on this massive peak, and although there is a long season ahead, I have a good feeling that we might just the first winter ascent early next year.

National Geographic Explores the Lure of K2

K2 may not be seeing any climbers this winter, but the world's second tallest mountain is never far from the thoughts of the mountaineering community. Last month, a new book called The Ghosts of K2: The Epic Saga of the First Ascent was released. It is written by a man named Mick Conefrey, who helped make a BBC documentary about the mountain . While making that film, Conefrey was fortunate enough to meet a number of the climbers who have taken on K2 over the years, and from those interviews and interactions, he decided to forge ahead with the book, which not only recounts the tale of Italian climbers Achille Compagnoni and Lindo Lacedelli reaching the summit for the first time, but previous attempts to climb the mountain as well.

Earlier in the week, National Geographic posted an interview with Conefrey about his books, the lure of K2, and why it is held in such high regard amongst the top mountaineers in the world. In that interview, he talks about how the mountain got its name, what makes it such a dangerous place, and the strange first attempt to climb it by oculist Aleister Crowley back in 1902. If you think K2 is tough now, imagine what it must have been like more than a hundred years ago, when the gear used by climbers wasn't anywhere close to what was used to finally summit the mountain in 1954, let alone now.

Conefrey goes on to talk about the legendary American expedition – led by Charlie Houston – in 1953, as well as the ways K2 tests climbers, both physically and mentally. He also touches on the "curse" of K2 for women climbers, and what the author learned about the mountain by talking to survivors of numerous K2 expeditions.

All in all, an interesting read about a mountain that casts a very large literal and figurative shadow over the mountaineering world. And if you'd like to learn more about it, the BBC documentary that Conefrey made can be watched in its entirety below. It is an eye-opening film, even for those of us who know a few things about K2.

Winter Climbs 2016: Teams Pre-Acclimatzing in South America, Gathering in Pakistan

The winter climbing season is nearly upon us. The season officially arrives next Monday, which is the date that several teams have circled on their calendar as the start of the big challenge ahead. This year, there will be at least five individual teams attempting the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, while there are none currently scheduled for K2. In the days leading up to the start of the season, the climbers are busy preparing for what promises to be a long, difficult season. And while some are acclimatizing elsewhere, others have already arrived in Pakistan and are preparing to begin.

The Polish Justice For All squad is the first to arrive in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat. The team reached Lattabo two days ago, and have been busy building their camp ever since. They've set up their satellite communications system, solar panels, tents, and other gear, and are now patiently waiting for winter to officially arrive. They won't even begin to head up the mountain until that happens, but when it does, they'll be more than ready. The team is prepared to stay on Nanga for the entire season if necessary, waiting well into March for their chance at a summit. Hopefully it won't come to that, but with fickle weather a common occurrence on the mountain, anything is possible.

Meanwhile, the duo of Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are also in Pakistan. They arrived in Skardu last week, and while there haven't been updates since then, it is safe to assume they are now trekking towards Base Camp themselves. Depending on when they departed, they should arrive on the mountain before the start of winter as well. Simone reports that they had an armed escort with them, which is unsurprising considering the 2013 attack on Nanga Parbat BC by militants that left 11 people dead. The Pakistani government has taken strides to ensure that doesn't happen again, but it still weighs on the thoughts of climbers going there.


Elsewhere, Alex Txikon is busy acclimatizing in the Andes region of Argentina. He reports that while the altitudes there are helping his body prepare for the Karakoram, the climbing is non-technical, and the spring weather isn't anything close to what he'll face on Nanga Parbat. Still, it is a good way to get ready for the challenges he'll face on the mountain once again this year, as his team looks to complete the first winter route as well.

Finally, Adam Bielecki is also in South America acclimatizing, although he has chosen to workout in Chile instead. He reports that he is currently camping on the edge of a crater of a volcano at 22,244 ft (6779 meters), which is of course preparing him for altitude, but he too says that this is a non-technical climb. In a Facebook post he says that he is already bored with just hiking in the mountains, and is now ready for the real climbing to begin.

Both Alex and Adam will depart for Pakistan next week and begin making their way to Nanga Base Camp. Look for them to arrive around the start of the new year.

Right now, we're in a period of calm before the start of the winter season. After that, things will start to get interesting. The teams will be very busy acclimatizing, establishing their camps, fixing ropes, and watching the weather. Hopefully at least a few of them will get a legitimate shot at the summit this year. Those chances are few and far between, which is why the mountain has never been climbed in the winter before.

Stay tuned for more.

Gear Closet: Eddie Bauer Kara Koram 0º Sleeping Bag

We're living in a golden age of sleeping bag technology. Not only have our bags gotten lighter, warmer, and more packable, they now come with a wide variety of insulation types designed to perform better in difficult situations. Case in point, is the 0º Kara Koram sleeping bag from Eddie Bauer, a comfortable, well made product that is designed for cold weather expeditions where space is at a premium and getting a good night's sleep is crucial.

The Kara Koram line of sleeping bags continues Eddie Bauer's recent trend of creating high quality outdoor gear designed for use in the mountains. The company originally made a name for itself back in the 1940's and 50's by making great outdoor gear that was made for use on expeditions to remote places. But over the years the brand became more consumer focused, moving away from the rich heritage that it had in exploration and adventure. However, a few years back, the company launched its First Ascent line of gear, which was an attempt to get back to its roots. That gear was extremely well received, and got rave reviews from those who used it. In fact, some of my favorite pieces of gear that I own are from the First Ascent line, and I have loved everything that I've used. This sleeping bag is a continuation of Eddie Bauer refocusing on the outdoor market, and it delivers on the promise of high quality gear that is built to perform well in demanding conditions.

One of the first things that struck me about the Kara Koram bag was just how well it is built. Every aspect of the sleeping bag screams high quality, from the fabrics used on the outer shell, to the zippers, inner lining, and even the stitching that holds it all together. This feels like a product that can accompany you on many adventures, and come back in perfect shape. That kind of confidence is difficult to find in a lot of outdoor gear, but you'll feel it here.


Packed with 850 fill down, the Kara Koram is incredibly warm and comfortable, while still maintaining the ability to pack down to a surprisingly small size. That means it won't take up much room in your pack, but will still provide plenty of warmth on those cold nights in a tent. I haven't been able to test it at temperatures approaching its 0ºF (-17ºC) rating just yet, but I can attest to the fact that it has exceeded my expectations at every temperature range that I've used it in so far. I have every confidence that it would perform very well at the stated temperature rating, and possibly even lower should the need arise.

We all know that down is warm and provides great packability, but that it becomes all but useless when it it gets wet. That's why the Kara Koram features StormDown, which is Eddie Bauer's name for the water resistant insulation that comes from DownTek, the company that pioneered the hydrophobic down movement. Essentially, the down that is included in this sleeping bag has been treated with a water resistant coating that allows it to repel moisture, while maintaining its loft and ability to keep us warm. It is truly a revolutionary product, and I'm happy to say that it is put to good use here. For this bag to fail in the same manner as older down sleeping bags, conditions would have to be incredibly bad.

Getting a good night's sleep is imperative to enjoying your time in the backcountry, and this bag will help you to do jus that. Its interior is very comfortable, and while it does feature a mummy-cut design, I never felt cramped or claustrophobic inside. The designer at Eddie Bauer were even thoughtful enough to include an interior pocket for storing your electronic devices. This has the two-fold benefit of keeping those items close at hand for when you need them, as well as keeping them warm in cold conditions – something that can help with maintaining battery life and protecting LCD screens.

As with any mummy bag, the hood plays an important role in keeping you warm throughout the night, and the Kara Koram is no different. Fortunately, I found it easy to cinch up the hood, and still sleep very comfortably. But if you're the kind of person who finds this style of sleeping bag confining, you may have issues here.

For those who are concerned about how much their packs weigh when setting out on an adventure, the Kara Koram tips the scales at 2 lbs. 12 oz for the regular version, and 2 lbs. 15 oz for the long. While that doesn't make it the lightest sleeping bag on the market of course, those are still impressive numbers for bag that is rated for 0ºF. Winter gear is always heavier and bulkier than what we can get away with during the warmer months, but all things considered, this sleeping bag provides excellent performance for its weight and size.

Of course, any piece of gear that offers this level of performance tends to come with a steep price tag, and the Kara Koram 0º is no different. MSRP for this sleeping bag is $549, although it can be found online for less if you search hard enough. That price will probably be enough to put some people off, but good winter gear always costs more, and you'll be hard pressed to find a bag that performs this well for less.

As you can tell, I'm highly impressed with this bag. If you need something for cold weather adventures, I'd recommend it highly.

Expedition Recap: First Summit Attempt on Burke-Khang

If you followed my updates of the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, you probably saw me mention an expedition to the Nepali peak Burke-Khang on more than one occasion. The 6942 meter (22,775 ft) peak is one of more than a hundred mountains that Nepal opened to climbers for the first time back in 2014, providing mountaineers with the opportunity to post first ascents on some peaks that even now remain mostly uncharted. And since the mountain is named for American climber Bill Burke, who better than the man himself to help spearhead the first expedition to have a go at the summit?

Our friend Alan Arnette has posted an excellent expedition recap of the climb, starting with how Burke and Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering began scouting Burke-Khang last spring to look for potential routes to the top. Bill had received an assessment of the mountain from some of his Sherpa friends who had deemed in "unclimbable" but after flying over in a helicopter, taking hundreds of photos, and surveying the area fort themselves, Burke and Madison thought that they had spotted a safe way to approach the summit.

This fall, they returned to the remote region of Nepal to attempt the climb, spending several weeks fixing the route and exploring the best way to ascend. Eventually they made a summit push, and came up about 30 meters (100 feet) shy of the top. Apparently, they could have easily finished the route, but the snow cornice on top of the mountain was deemed unstable, so they elected to safely descend first. Burke hasn't ruled out returning to the mountain however, as it is clear he'd like to personally be the one to get the first ascent.

Reading Alan's piece is not only a good recap of everything that happened this fall, but it offers nice insights into how an expedition conducts its research and scouting prior to the launch of their mission. It also provides solid background on what happens during a climb, and what it is like to be live on a mountain while working towards your objectives. It is definitely a good read for anyone who not only follows mountaineering, but is interested in the logistics of the climb too.

Check it out in its entirety here.

Antarctica 2015: Climbers Pinned Down on Vinson, Worsley Enters the Sastrugi Field

We have more news from Antarctica today, where the season is progressing rapidly already, even though the teams still have a very long way to go before they reach the Pole. The weather continues to be the top story, although at this time of the year the explorers just need to make the most of it, and take what they can get. Still, there are some interesting things to report as these intrepid adventurers press on with their expeditions.

We'll start today with news from Mt. Vinson, the tallest peak on the continent at 4892 meters (16,049 ft). December and early January are popular climbing seasons the mountain, with a number of teams arriving as climbers go in search of the Seven Summits. Earlier in the week we had our first successful summits of the season, with at least 18 people topping out. But one squad has been stranded at High Camp on Vinson over the past few days due to extremely high winds.

The Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit on Monday, and after a brief celebration at the top, the five members of the squad descended back their campsite. But the winds picked up as they moved down, so they decided to stay put rather than risk a tricky descent in poor weather. The winds haven't abated for the past four days however, so they have been stuck in place, waiting for conditions to improve. Reportedly the wind speeds were in excess of 50 knots (57 mph/92 km/h), which is simply too dangerous to try to move in. There is good news on the horizon though, as the winds are expected to die down later today, giving the team a chance to descend at long last.

Other than these stranded climbers, Vinson is apparently empty at the moment. The latest dispatch from the Madison Mountaineering team indicates that they have been the only ones on the hill over the past few days. It's likely that the high winds are also keeping other climbers from arriving at Base Camp, although that will soon change too I'm sure.


Elsewhere, Henry Worsley is closing in on the 85th degree and is expected to cross that point later today. It won't be easy going however, as he reports that he has now entered a large sastrugi field, which making progress very difficult. Sastrugi are hard ridges of snow and ice that form on the surface in Antarctica. Some are small enough to ski over, but they require a bit of extra effort and can be tough on the body. Others grow so large that they have to be skied around. They are a common obstacle for anyone skiing to the South Pole, but they are annoying and frustrating as well, slowing progress and taking a mental and physical toll on the body.

Italian kite-skier Michele Pontrandolfo is still waiting for the winds he so desperately needs to appear. He has gone days without seeing much of a breeze at all, which has forced him to lug his two sleds behind him, instead of pulling them along with his kite. His original intention was to ski to both the Geographic South Pole and the Pole of Inaccessibility, while making a traverse of the Antarctic continent. He still has time to complete that journey, but he will need to make up some serious distance if and when the wind does finally appear.

The team of Carl Alvy, Khai Nguyen, and Emma Kelty has seen the whiteout conditions pass and the sun return. They have had strong winds in their face for much of the journey though, which is making progress slow at this point. They report better surface conditions however, and after just five days on the ice, they're still finding their rhythm. Still, everyone seems in good spirits and morale is high as they head south to the Pole.

American solo-skier Doug Tumminello continues to struggle in whiteout conditions, but is forging ahead nicely. He's hoping for conditions to improve today as well. Scottish skier Luke Robertson is in a similar boat, although he did report the sun putting in a brief appearance yesterday.

That's all for now. More news as it is warranted.

Gear Closet: Jöttnar Fenrir Hydrophobic Down Jacket

One of my favorite advances in the area of outdoor gear over the past few years has been the introduction of water-resistant down. Before the creation of this type of insulation, anytime a down jacket or sleeping bag got wet, it became practically useless. Wet down loses its loft, becomes clumpy, and can even freeze solid. But with this new type of down insulation that isn't the case, and an increasing number of companies are incorporating it into their products, improving the overall performance in the process. Case in point, the Fenrir jacket from Jöttnar, which uses Downtek insulation to create a warm, lightweight outer layer that is built for alpine pursuits.

If you're not familiar with Jöttnar just yet, it is probably because the U.K.-based company is still relatively new on the scene, and hasn't made a big impact on this side of the pond just yet. But they're hoping to change that in the near future, and considering the line-up of outdoor performance gear that they offer, I think you'll probably be hearing a lot more from them in the future.

The Fenrir is one of the company's flagship down jackets, and is a good example of their approach to design gear for use in extreme conditions. Lightweight and highly packable, the jacket weighs a mere 13.2 ounces (380 g), but offers a level of performance that you might find in a heavier, bulkier product. Stuffed with 850 fill power down, Jöttnar has placed its water-repellant insulation in strategic areas throughout the jacket to help make it as efficient and comfortable as possible. As a result, the Fenrir has been designed to provide protection where it is needed most, without becoming overly bulky.

In fact, one of the things that I like the most about this jacket is its athletic cut and design. This is a precut that has been designed with outdoor athletes in mind, and as a result it hugs the body closely, providing a fit that doesn't impede movement in any way, but also ensures that the warmth is kept inside, close to the body where it will do the most good.


The outer fabrics of the Fenrir include rip-stop nylon that has been designed to keep the howling winds at bay. Those same fabrics are also water resistant and treated with a DWR coating that will repel just about anything short of a serious downpour. That helps to keep the Downtek insulation inside the jacket from getting overly wet as well, even though it is capable of staying dry for up to 10 times longer than traditional down as well.

Other features that are much appreciated include an interior pocket large enough to hold a smartphone, two hand-warming pockets on either side of the jacket, and elastic cuffs that were specifically designed to help keep the heat in. Drawcords along the bottom of the Fenrir allow the wearer to dial in just the right fit, and those same cords have been engineered to avoid snagging them on external objects while on the move.

As someone who is a frequent traveler, one of my favorite features of this jacket is its ability to pack down to a very small footprint. Jöttnar even includes a stuff sack along with the Fenrir that allows you to store the jacket until it is needed, without taking up too much room in your backpack. This will come in handy on many future trips where a warm jacket is needed, but you won't want to sacrifice carrying capacity.

When used as part of a layering system – consisting of base layers, a mid-layer, and an outer shell – the Fenrir truly comes alive. This is a warm, comfortable, puffy jacket, without too much of the puffy part. The fact that it also features a classic, simple, but elegant, design makes it easy to wear around town on cold weather days without feeling like you're out of place. But the Fenrir was designed for performance in the mountains, and that is where it truly shines. The jacket will keep you warm on the trail in incredibly bad conditions, allowing you to keep moving without compromise. What more could we possibly ask for out of our gear?

Jöttnar sells the Fenrir for £200, which roughly translates to $300 at the current exchange rate. That's a relative bargain for a jacket that performs at this level, and offers so much versatility. The biggest challenge you're likely to have is tracking one down here in the States or in North America in general. Hopefully that will change soon, as this is certainly a brand to keep an eye on, and their gear is top notch in every way.

Antarctica 2015: Whiteouts Make for Tough Going, First Summits on Vinson

While I was off romping around the Caribbean last week, more explorers and adventurers hit the ice in the Antarctic and have now begun their journeys towards the South Pole. But as usual, the frozen continent is not making it easy on anyone as surface and weather conditions test their patience and resolve.

Henry Worsley has started to pick up the pace some, in part because the snow beneath his skis has become more firm, allowing him to glide along a bit more efficiently. The British polar explorer also seems to be finding his rhythm after more than three weeks on the ice, which is helping as well. A few days back he crossed the 84th parallel, which means he is now nearing the halfway point to the Pole. But considering the fact that he aims to traverse the continent, he is actually only about a quarter of the way done. As of now, he has skied about 240 nautical miles (444 km/276 miles), with the last couple of days being completed in whiteout conditions. That type of weather can truly test the spirit, but Henry continues to press ahead as best he can.

Worsley isn't the only one dealing with whiteouts at the moment. The three-person team consisting of guide Carl Alvy and his clients Khai Nguyen and Emma Kelty also have been skiing through the soup the past couple of days. After being delayed at Union Glacier due to weather, the trio finally hit the ice this past Saturday, and have been making solid progress at the start. But the weather conditions do test their mood as they press on towards the South Pole.


Italian kite-skier Michele Pontrandolfo continues to struggle due to a lack of wind. Progress has been incredibly slow mostly because he can't break out the kite to help haul him and his heavy sleds across the Antarctic expanse. He is hoping to traverse the continent as well, but unless he finds some wind soon, he may run out of time before he can accomplish that goal. That said, if he does get some strong winds, he can also make up a tremendous amount of time, so don't count him out just yet.

American adventurer Doug Tumminello is now two days out from Hercules Inlet on his solo and unsupported journey to the Pole, and is already reporting tough conditions. He says that high winds and sastrugi – hard ridges on the ice – are making it tough to get going. Throw in the long, uphill slog that starts at Hercules, and his first few days have been challenging to say the least. But, as with most Antarctic skiers, he'll find his ski-legs within a few days, and will be steaming along before we know it.

Similarly, Scottish solo-skier Luke Robertson got underway this past weekend as well, and has already spent the better part of three days on his route to the South Pole as well. He reports whiteout conditions as well, making it tough to see the horizon and navigate. He's climbed up to 800 meters (2624 ft), but still has a ways to go before he reaches the polar plateau, but so far everything seems to be going well, and he remains in great spirits.

Meanwhile, over on Mt. Vinson we've seen our first summits of the season as well. Reportedly 12 climbers – including three guides – topped out over the weekend, setting the stage for others to follow in the days ahead. They were followed yesterday by the Madison Mountaineering squad, who also placed five climbers on the 4892 meter (16,049 ft) summit. High winds are keeping those climbers at High Camp however, where they are reportedly resting comfortably. They'll descend as soon as conditions improve, and start the process of heading home.

The climbing season on Vinson should continue for a few more weeks, typically culminating right around the start of the new year. We can expect a number of other teams to summit in the days ahead, as numerous people look to bag another one of the Seven Summits.

That's all for now. More updates to come soon.

Winter Climbing 2016: Teams Prep For Nanga Parbat

The dust hasn't completely settled on the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, but teams are already looking ahead to the winter. While there are few expeditions that take place during the coldest, snowiest months of the year, as previously discussed there are at least five squads heading to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan to attempt the first ascent of that mountain during the winter season. To prepare for the challenges they'll face, several of those teams have already started their acclimatization process. ExWeb has a complete rundown of the situation.

The team being led by Alex Txikon has decided to acclimatize in the Andes of South America before flying to Pakistan. He'll be joined by Daniele Nardi, Ali Sadpara, and Janusz Golab. The team left for Argentina last Friday and plan to stay there until flying to Pakistan on December 22, the first full day of winter.

Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have flown to Chile where they'll also acclimatize in the Andes ahead of their winter attempt on Nanga. They'll first acclimatize on Ohos de Salado, a 6893 meter (22,614 ft) peak that will get them ready for a winter expedition to the Himalaya. The duo plan to climb NP in pure alpine style, without establishing camps or working a specific route.

Meanwhile, the joint Polish-Pakistani team that is attempting Nanga Parbat this winter has already started their acclimatization efforts on Rakaposhi. They've already reached an altitude of 4600 meters (15,091 ft) as they start to get their bodies ready for the conditions they'll face in the days to come. They'll be climbing the Schell Route on the Rupal Face, and hope to be on the mountain when winter officially begins.

Finally, Tomek Mackewicz and Elisabeth Revol will be back on Nanga Parbat this winter as well. They'll first acclimatize in the region before heading to Base Camp on the mountain in early January. The two climbers scouting a route last season, and even made a valiant attempt at the summit, but were forced to abandon their attempt. They'll use the intel they received on that expedition to help them this year too.

That's all for now. Expect to hear a lot more about these expeditions in the weeks ahead. We'll be watching their progress very closely.